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| Title: | A DISCRETE SPECTRAL EVOLUTION MODEL FOR NONLINEAR WAVES OVER 2D TOPOGRAPHY | |
| DOI No: | 10.1142/9789812701916_0008 | |
| Source: | COASTAL ENGINEERING 2004 (pp 119-131) | |
| Author(s): | T. T. JANSSEN
Corresponding author. Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1, 2628 CN Delft, The Netherlands T. H. C. HERBERS Department of Oceanography, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, California, 93943-5122, USA J. A. BATTJES Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1, 2628 CN Delft, The Netherlands |
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| Abstract: | A discrete spectral evolution model is presented suitable for the propagation of multi-directional wave fields over weakly two-dimensional topography. A coupled set of amplitude evolution equations is derived that includes the combined effects of wave-wave and wave-bottom interactions in deep-intermediate water depth. A heuristic extension to shallow water is given that describes quadratic wave-wave interactions without restriction on the resonance mismatch. Comparisons to experimental data demonstrate that the model accurately describes the effects of: 1) wave refraction and diffraction by topography with considerable two-dimensional features, and 2) harmonic generation in focal regions. A full account of the theory, including cubic wave-wave interactions and a rigorous treatment of the shallow water limit is given in Janssen et al. (2004). | |
| Full Text: | View full text in PDF format (641KB) | |
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