| Title: | ANOTHER STEP TOWARDS A POST-BOUSSINESQ WAVE MODEL |
| DOI No: | 10.1142/9789812701916_0009 |
| Source: | COASTAL ENGINEERING 2004 (pp 132-144)
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| Author(s): | HEMMING A. SCHÄFFER
DHI Water & Environment, Agern Allé 5, DK-2970 Hørsholm, Denmark
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| Abstract: | Progress toward a new non-linear and fully dispersive irregular-wave model is presented. The model relies on time stepping the two surface boundary conditions with a closure between the horizontal and vertical velocity expressed in terms of convolution integrals. The formulation is fully explicit in space and thus no equations need to be inverted. The convolution integrals involve impulse response functions exhibiting exponential decay. In practice, this reduces the infinite limits of the integrals to a horizontal distance of only several water depths. The model is derived for linear waves over a mildly sloping one-dimensional bottom, and the shoaling property is verified for a linear regular wave. It is further discussed how an existing perturbation method can be used for the inclusion of wave nonlinearity of arbitrary order. |
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