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| Title: | SPECTRAL EVOLUTION OF BREAKING-NON BREAKING WAVES IN THE SURF ZONE | |
| DOI No: | 10.1142/9789812701916_0022 | |
| Source: | COASTAL ENGINEERING 2004 (pp 295-304) | |
| Author(s): | PANAYOTIS PRINOS
Hydraulics Lab., Dept. of Civil Engineering, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, 54124, Thessaloniki, Greece EVANGELOS KOUTANDOS Hydraulics Lab., Dept. of Civil Engineering, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, 54124, Thessaloniki, Greece THEOPHANIS KARAMBAS Dept. of Marine Sciences, University of Aegean, Mytilini, 81100, Lesvos, Greece |
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| Abstract: | In the present study the spectral evolution of breaking-non breaking, regular and irregular waves in the surf zone is studied experimentally in a large scale facility and numerically using a higher order Boussinesq type breaking and nonbreaking wave propagation model. It is revealed that in breaking conditions the spectrums undergo significant changes under the combined effects on non-linear energy transfer and dissipation. The comparison of model results with the experimental data shows good agreement. | |
| Full Text: | View full text in PDF format (440KB) | |
| TOC: | Back to Table of Contents | |
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