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| Title: | ROLLER MODELLING IN THE CONTEXT OF UNDERTOW PREDICTION | |
| DOI No: | 10.1142/9789812701916_0024 | |
| Source: | COASTAL ENGINEERING 2004 (pp 318-330) | |
| Author(s): | R. CIENFUEGOS
Permanent address: Departamento de Ingeniería Hidráulica y Ambiental, Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile, Vicuña Mackenna 4860, casilla 306, correo 221, Santiago de Chile. Laboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels, BP 53, 38041 Grenoble Cedex 9, France E. BARTHÉLEMY Laboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels, BP 53, 38041 Grenoble Cedex 9, France P. BONNETON Département de Géologie et d'Océanographie - Université de Bordeaux I, Av. des Facultés 33405 Talence, France |
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| Abstract: | In this paper we investigate the energy-based roller equations previously published by Stive and De Vriend (1994) and Dally and Brown (1995). Although these models differ by a factor of 2 in one of their terms, the same parameter values are commonly used to solve them. Our aim is to elucidate these discrepancies and to explore the physical adequacy of the roller models by using an inverse modelling technique based on undertow measurements. Comparison with Cox (1995) experimental data on regular waves propagating on a planar beach shows that a realistic contribution of potential energy in the roller equation should be included. | |
| Full Text: | View full text in PDF format (542KB) | |
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