| Title: | WAVE CELERITY IN THE INNER SURF ZONE |
| DOI No: | 10.1142/9789812701916_0030 |
| Source: | COASTAL ENGINEERING 2004 (pp 392-401)
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| Author(s): | P. BONNETON
Department of Geology and Oceanography, UMR CNRS 5805, University of Bordeaux I, 33405 Talence, France
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| Abstract: | In this paper, the ability of the Saint Venant shock-wave theory for predicting broken-wave kinematics in the inner surf zone is discussed. We show that this approach is based on hypotheses which are less restrictive than those of the classical bore model. We derive a new analytical expression from the shock-wave theory to improve regular broken-wave celerity prediction. Model results fit better celerity measurements than the classical bore model. The new expression represents a useful alternative when evaluating broken-wave celerity in time-averaged wave models. |
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