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| Title: | TIME-VARIANT MASS TRANSPORT BENEATH BREAKING WAVES | |
| DOI No: | 10.1142/9789812701916_0034 | |
| Source: | COASTAL ENGINEERING 2004 (pp 441-453) | |
| Author(s): | JENS HARMS, Postgraduate Student
Ph: +49 202 4394197, Fax: +49 202 4394196. Hydraulic Eng. Section, Civil Eng. Department, Pauluskirchstr. 7, 42285 Wuppertal, Bergische University Wuppertal, Germany TORSTEN SCHLURMANN, Postdoctoral Researcher Ph: +49 202 4394197, Fax: +49 202 4394196. Hydraulic Eng. Section, Civil Eng. Department, Pauluskirchstr. 7, 42285 Wuppertal, Bergische University Wuppertal, Germany |
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| Abstract: | The present paper investigates breaking wave processes (transient wave package) in a laboratory wave flume using a high speed camera and the particle imaging velocimetry (PIV) technique. This specific measurement device assists to examine the entire breaking process in depth without the necessity to repeat experiments. Variability of essential kinematics among experimental runs is thus eliminated. Full review of analytical formulations on net mass-transport velocities beneath nonlinear waves is given and considered in respect to transient, breaking waves. Calculations of magnitude and direction of water particle motions beneath breaking waves and time-dependent, depth-resolving mass-transport velocities are exposed. Furthermore, detailed studies at arbitrarily chosen cross-sections are carried out and information about net transport before, during and after breaking are given. Significant divergence with existing analytical theories of mass transport formulations beneath water waves is elucidated. | |
| Full Text: | View full text in PDF format (801KB) | |
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