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Title:ON THE ACCURACY OF WAVE MODELS IN A COASTAL ZONE
DOI No:10.1142/9789812701916_0073
Source:COASTAL ENGINEERING 2004 (pp 920-932)
Author(s):SONIA PONCE DE LEÓN
Unit of Marine Technology and Engineering, Technical Universiiy of Lisbon, Instituto Superior Técnico, Av. Rovisco Pais 1049-001 LISBOA, Portugal

PAULA PILAR
Unit of Marine Technology and Engineering, Technical Universiiy of Lisbon, Instituto Superior Técnico, Av. Rovisco Pais 1049-001 LISBOA, Portugal

CARLOS GUEDES SOARES
Unit of Marine Technology and Engineering, Technical Universiiy of Lisbon, Instituto Superior Técnico, Av. Rovisco Pais 1049-001 LISBOA, Portugal

Abstract:Some physical processes, typical of coastal zones, modify the wave field, in a complex manner, depending on local conditions. This work focuses on the how the calculated value of significant wave height depends on the wave models for intermediate and shallow water, by comparing the predictions of two different models. Also studied is the sensitivity of the results to changes in bathymetry data when a very fine grid model is adopted in an implementation of a third generation wave model.
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