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Title:TEMPORAL AND SPATIAL STATISTICAL VARIABILITY OF THE WAVE HEIGHT IN THE SURF ZONE
DOI No:10.1142/9789812701916_0079
Source:COASTAL ENGINEERING 2004 (pp 997-1008)
Author(s):M. C. CASTILLO
Grupo de Puertos y Costas. Universidad de Granada. Centro Andaluz de Medio, Ambiente (CEAMA). Avda. Mediterráneo s/n. 18006 Granada, Spain

A. BAQUERIZO
Grupo de Puertos y Costas. Universidad de Granada. Centro Andaluz de Medio, Ambiente (CEAMA). Avda. Mediterráneo s/n. 18006 Granada, Spain

M. A. LOSADA
Grupo de Puertos y Costas. Universidad de Granada. Centro Andaluz de Medio, Ambiente (CEAMA). Avda. Mediterráneo s/n. 18006 Granada, Spain

Abstract:A model is proposed for predicting the statistical description of local variables (water column components, wave height, radiation stress, etc.) at any point of a given beach profile as well as the profile evolution for any given sea state. The input data consist of the initial beach profile and the offshore oscillation description. The model provides the spatial evolution of the statistical descriptors of these variables.
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