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Title:DEPTH-LIMITED DISTRIBUTION OF THE HIGHEST WAVE IN A SEA STATE
DOI No:10.1142/9789812701916_0081
Source:COASTAL ENGINEERING 2004 (pp 1022-1031)
Author(s):FERNANDO J. MENDEZ
Ocean & Coastal Research Group, University of Cantabria, Avda de los Castros s/n, 39005 Santander, Spain

INIGO J. LOSADA
Ocean & Coastal Research Group, University of Cantabria, Avda de los Castros s/n, 39005 Santander, Spain

RAUL MEDINA
Ocean & Coastal Research Group, University of Cantabria, Avda de los Castros s/n, 39005 Santander, Spain

Abstract:A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves (Mendez et al., 2004) and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical parameters are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations.
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