COASTAL ENGINEERING 2004

COASTAL ENGINEERING 2004
Proceedings of the 29th International Conference

National Civil Engineering Laboratory, Lisbon, Portugal, 19 – 24 September 2004

CONTENTS

VOLUME 1

FRONT MATTER	v
Keynote
FORTY YEARS OF COASTAL ENGINEERING IN PORTUGAL I. B. MOTA OLIVEIRA	3
Waves
WAVES IN NUMERICAL AND PHYSICAL WAVE FLUMES – A DETERMINISTIC COMBINATION HAIWEN ZHANG and HEMMING A. SCHÄFFER	43
COMPUTATION OF NONLINEAR WATER WAVES WITH A HIGH-ORDER BOUSSINESQ MODEL DAVID R FUHRMAN, PER A. MADSEN and HARRY B. BINGHAM	56
THE EVOLUTION OF LARGE WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER VASILIKI KATSARDI and CHRIS SWAN	69
A MULTI-LAYER APPROACH TO BOUSSINESQ-TYPE MODELING P. LYNETT, P. L.-F. LIU and H.-H. HWUNG	82
A NUMERICAL SOLUTION OF THE BOUSSINESQ EQUATIONS BASED ON A GODUNOV-TYPE FVM SUZANA ILIC, KUTSI ERDURAN and VEDRANA KUTIJA	94
2D HIGHER ORDER BOUSSINESQ EQUATIONS FOR WAVES IN FLOWS WITH VORTICITY Z. L. Zou, J. T. Kirby and F. Y. Shi	106
A DISCRETE SPECTRAL EVOLUTION MODEL FOR NONLINEAR WAVES OVER 2D TOPOGRAPHY T. T. JANSSEN, T. H. C. HERBERS and J. A. BATTJES	119
ANOTHER STEP TOWARDS A POST-BOUSSINESQ WAVE MODEL HEMMING A. SCHÄFFER	132
Experiments on the Front of Continuous Wavetrains in a Large Wave Tank WEN-SON CHIANG, HWUNG-HWENG HWUNG and YU-HSUAN CHANG	145
SIDE-BAND EVOLUTION OF INITIALLY UNIFORM DEEP WATER WAVE H. H. HWUNG, W.S. CHIANG, P.L.F. LIU and P. LYNETT	157
NONLINEARITY IN IRREGULAR WAVES FROM LINEAR LAGRANGEIAN SUPERPOSITION STEFAN WOLTERING and KARL-FRIEDRICH DAEMRICH	169
MODELLING SURFACE WATER WAVES – AN APPLICATION OF HIGH-LEVEL GLN THEORY C. T. CHAN and C. SWAN	182
NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF THE SECOND-ORDER NONLINEAR EFFECTS ON WAVE SPECTRA AND STATISTICAL PROPERTIES OF COASTAL WAVES HAJIME KATO, HISAMICHI NOBUOKA and YASUMITSU KOMATSUZAKI	195
SHALLOW-WATER SPECTRAL SHAPES JANE MCKEE SMITH	206
WAVE DEFORMATION IN VEGETATION FRINGED CHANNELS TOSHIYUKI ASANO, RYOKO MATSUMOTO and SEIJI KIKUCHI	218
INTERACTION AND DEFORMATION OF SOLITARY WAVES AROUND CHANNEL JUNCTION MASATOSHI YUHI, HAJIME MASE and HAJIME ISHIDA	230
WAVE FIELD MODIFICATIONS BY ELLIPTIC BATHYMETRIC ANOMALIES WITH GRADUAL TRANSITIONS IN DEPTH CHRISTOPHER J. BENDER and ROBERT G. DEAN	243
NUMERICAL MODELING OF SHIP-INDUCED CURRENTS IN CONFINED WATERWAYS OKEY G. NWOGU and ZEKI DEMIRBILEK	256
ANALYTICAL MODEL FOR WAVE TRANSMISSION AT ARTIFICIAL REEFS MATTHIAS BLECK and HOCINE OUMERACI	269
TRANSFORMATION OF IRREGULAR WAVES AND WAVE GROUPS DUE TO BREAKING AND NONLINEAR PROCESSES IANA SAPRYKINA and SERGEY KUZNETSOV	282
SPECTRAL EVOLUTION OF BREAKING-NON BREAKING WAVES IN THE SURF ZONE PANAYOTIS PRINOS, EVANGELOS KOUTANDOS and THEOPHANIS KARAMBAS	295
VELOCITY MEASUREMENTS UNDER BROKEN WAVES AND BORES SANDRO LONGO and MARCO PETTI	305
ROLLER MODELLING IN THE CONTEXT OF UNDERTOW PREDICTION R. CIENFUEGOS, E. BARTHÉLEMY and P. BONNETON	318
REFINED SURFACE TENSION MODEL FOR LAGRANGIAN SIMULATION OF WAVE BREAKING HIROYUKI IKARI, HITOSHI GOTOH, MAMI HASHIMOTO and TETSUO SAKAI	331
THREE-DIMENSIONAL LARGE EDDY SIMULATION OF VORTICES INDUCED BY PLUNGING BREAKING WAVES PIERRE LUBIN, STÉPHANE VINCENT, JEAN-PAUL CALTAGIRONE and STÉPHANE ABADIE	344
EXPERIMENTAL VERIFICATION OF THE RELATIVE TROUGH FROUDE NUMBER (RTFN) METHOD FOR WAVE BREAKING IN BOUSSINESQ MODELS TAKASHI OKAMOTO and DAVID R. BASCO	357
EXTRA STRAIN RATES IN SPILLING BREAKING WAVES S. K. MISRA, J. T. KIRBY, M. BROCCHINI, M. THOMAS, F. VERON and C. KAMBHAMETTU	370
ESTIMATES OF SURF ZONE TURBULENCE IN A LARGE-SCALE LABORATORY FLUME CHRISTOPHER P. SCOTT, DANIEL T. COX, SUNGWON SHIN and NEIL CLAYTON	379
WAVE CELERITY IN THE INNER SURF ZONE P. BONNETON	392
BOUSSINESQ MODELLING OF BREAKING WAVES: DESCRIPTION OF TURBULENCE R. BRIGANTI, G. BELLOTTI, R. MUSUMECI, E. FOTI and M. BROCCHINI	402
SPH MODELING OF BREAKING WAVES BENEDICT D. ROGERS and ROBERT A. DALRYMPLE	415
LABORATORY OBSERVATION OF BREAKING CRITERIA OF WIND-GENERATED DEEPWATER WAVES SANG-HO OH, NATSUKI MIZUTANI, NORIAKI HASHIMOTO and KYUNG-DUCK SUH	428
TIME-VARIANT MASS TRANSPORT BENEATH BREAKING WAVES JENS HARMS and TORSTEN SCHLURMANN	441
SURF ZONE WAVE MODELING: IMPROVEMENT OF DISSIPATION BY DEPTH-INDUCED BREAKING IN SWAN AND APPLICATION IN MALACCA STRAITS SIN HWEI LYDIA LIM and ENG SOON CHAN	454
DISSIPATION OF NONLINEAR SHALLOW WATER WAVES K. L. EDWARDS, J. M. KAIHATU and J. VEERAMONY	467
MESOSCALE WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION OVER HETEROGENEOUS SEDIMENTS PAUL A. WORK, HÜSEYİN DEMİR, JAMES M. KAIHATU and GEORGE VOULGARIS	477
WAVE-INDUCED SEDIMENT RESUSPENSION ON A MUDDY INNER SHELF DURING HURRICANE CLAUDETTE A. SHEREMET, G. W. STONE and X. ZHANG	490
DISSIPATION OF WAVE ENERGY BY COHESIVE SEDIMENTS J. M. KAIHATU and A. SHEREMET	498
WAVE AND CURRENT INTERACTIONS WITH VEGETATION TAKAO OTA, NOBUHISA KOBAYASHI and JAMES T. KIRBY	508
EXPERIMENTAL AND NUMERICAL STUDY OF IRREGULAR WAVE BOUNDARY LAYERS ON A ROUGH BOTTOM AHMAD SANA, HITOSHI TANAKA and TAKESHI SUZUKI	521
APPLICATION OF A MILD-SLOPE EQUATION FEM MODEL WITH INTERNAL GENERATION OF WAVES: THE VENICE LIDO INLET CASE GIAN-MARIO BELTRAMI	529
THE ROLE OF WIND WAVES ON THE FORMATION AND DEVELOPMENT OF LANGMUIR CIRCULATIONS IN A SHALLOW WATER REGION NOBUHIRO MATSUNAGA and KEN-ICHI UZAKI	542
DIFFUSION OF TURBULENT JET UNDER WAVES KUANG-AN CHANG, YONGUK RYU and NOBUHITO MORI	555
BREAKING WAVE LOADS ON A SLENDER PILE IN SHALLOW WATER KAI IRSCHIK, UWE SPARBOOM and HOCINE OUMERACI	568
MODELING OF WAVE INTERACTION WITH COMPLEX COASTAL STRUCTURES USING AN ENHANCED VOF MODEL FENGYAN SHI, QUN ZHAO, JAMES T. KIRBY, DAL SOO LEE and SEUNG NAM SEO	581
ESTIMATING INCIDENT AND REFLECTED WAVES USING A FULLY NONLINEAR WAVE MODEL MIGUEL FIGUERES and JOSEP R. MEDINA	594
BOUSSINESQ MODELING OF WAVE INTERACTION WITH POROUS SUBMERGED BREAKWATERS IOANNIS AVGERIS, THEOPHANIS V. KARAMBAS and PANAYOTIS PRINOS	604
REFLECTION OF AN OBLIQUELY INCIDENT BORE FROM AN INCLINED WALL HIDEO MATSUTOMI and KENTARO IMAI	617
EFFECTS OF CROSS ANGLE BETWEEN WAVE AND CURRENT ON THREE-DIMENSIONAL FLOW FIELDS AROUND A CYLINDER SHINYA UMEDA, TOSHIHARU MAGAI, MASATOSHI YUHI and HAJIME ISHIDA	629
ESTIMATION OF MACH-STEM BREAKER HEIGHT ALONG STRUCTURES TETSU MEMITA and TETSUO SAKAI	642
THE INFLUENCE OF SWELL ON THE SEA SURFACE ROUGHNESS AND THE GROWTH OF WIND WAVES QIN CHEN, PAUL A. HWANG and JAMES M. KAIHATU	654
GROWTH RESPONSE OF WAVES TO THE WIND STRESS WILLIAM L. PEIRSON and STEPHEN E. BELCHER	667
LABORATORY REAL STORM REPRODUCTION USING WIND JOSE A. GONZÁLEZ-ESCRIVÁ, JOAQUÍN M. GARRIDO, JOSEP R. MEDINA and JIMMY GEERAERTS	677
DEVELOPMENT AND VERIFICATION OF THE COUPLED ATMOSPHERE-OCEAN MODEL FOR ISE BAY, JAPAN TERUO OHSAWA, HIDEAKI MIZUTANI, TOMOKAZU MURAKAMI, TOMONAO KOBAYASHI, TAKASHI YASUDA and TATEKI FUJIWARA	690
LONG-TERM AND EXTREME WAVE CLIMATE OF THE BLACK SEA ERDAL OZHAN, SALEH ABDALLA and NIHAL YILMAZ	701
A NEARSHORE WAVE ATLAS ALONG THE COASTS OF FRANCE BASED ON THE NUMERICAL MODELING OF WAVE CLIMATE OVER 25 YEARS MICHEL BENOIT and FLORENCE LAFON	714
EXTREME EVENTS AND WAVE FORECAST IN THE IBERIAN NEARSHORE EUGEN RUSU, CARLOS VENTURA SOARES, JOSÉ PAULO PINTO and RAQUEL SILVA	727
A HIND-CAST DATA BASE FOR THE DESIGN OF OFFSHORE WIND ENERGY STRUCTURES IN THE GERMAN BIGHT KIM MITTENDORF, MARTIN KOHLMEIER and WERNER ZIELKE	740
EXTREME HYDRODYNAMIC BOUNDARY CONDITIONS IN OSTEND (BELGIUM) KOEN TROUW, JORIS BLANCKAERT, TOON VERWAEST, DAVID HURDLE, WIM VAN ALBOOM, JAAK MONBALIU, JULIEN DE ROUCK, PETER DE WOLF, MARC WILLEMS, MARC SAS, DANIEL DECROO and GIJS VAN BANNING	753
A WAVE FORECASTING SYSTEM FOR THE REAL TIME MANAGEMENT OF THE GIJON HARBOUR JOSE MOYANO RETAMERO, ELENA SANCHEZ BADORREY and MARTA GOMEZ LAHOZ	766
MULTI-DECADAL WIND WAVE MODELLING OVER THE BALTIC SEA WITOLD CIEŚLIKIEWICZ, BARBARA PAPLIŃSKA-SWERPEL and CARLOS GUEDES SOARES	778
FORECASTING WAVE CONDITIONS IN BEACHES: FROM NESTED SIMULATIOS TO FIELD OBSERVATIONS DANIEL GONZALEZ-MARCO, AGUSTIN SANCHEZ-ARCILLA, RODOLFO BOLAÑOS, JOAQUIM SOSPEDRA, JOAN PAU SIERRA and JAVIER UZCANGA	791
EFFECTS OF BOUNDARY CONDITION EVALUATION ON DESIGN WAVE MODELING HANZ D. NIEMEYER, RALF KAISER and AGNIESZKA HERMAN	804
LIMITS OF OPERATIONAL WAVE PREDICTION IN THE NORTH-WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN RODOLFO BOLAÑOS, AGUSTÍN SÁNCHEZ-ARCILLA, JESUS GÓMEZ and JORDI CATEURA	818
MODELLING OF HYDRODYNAMICS AROUND A SCHEME OF DETACHED LEAKY BREAKWATERS PREMANANDAN T. FERNANDO and SHUNQI PAN	830
LINEAR WAVE PROPAGATION ON AN ADAPTIVE QUAD-TREE CUT-CELL GRID RODOLFO SILVA, ALISTAIR G.L. BORTHWICK and EDGAR G. MENDOZA	842
IMPROVEMENT OF THE NUMERICS AND DEEP-WATER PHYSICS IN AN ACADEMIC VERSION OF SWAN ANDRÉ J. VAN DER WESTHUYSEN, MARCEL ZIJLEMA and JURJEN A. BATTJES	855
NEAR-SHORE WAVE MODELING WITH TWO COUPLED MODELS: SWAN AND TRITON J. GROENEWEG, N. DOORN, M.J.A. BORSBOOM and A.R. VAN DONGEREN	868
ENERGY BALANCE EQUATION MODEL WITH DIFFRACTION EFFECT FOR RANDOM WAVES KAZUYA OKI, HAJIME MASE and TERRY S. HEDGES	881
A THIRD-GENERATION SPECTRAL WAVE MODEL USING AN UNSTRUCTURED FINITE VOLUME TECHNIQUE OLE R. SØRENSEN, HENRIK KOFOED-HANSEN, MORTEN RUGBJERG and LARS S. SØRENSEN	894
RELIABILITY OF SWAN AT THE PETTEN SEA DEFENCE GERBRANT VAN VLEDDER, JACCO GROENEWEG and SJAAK JACOBSE	907
ON THE ACCURACY OF WAVE MODELS IN A COASTAL ZONE SONIA PONCE DE LEÓN, PAULA PILAR and CARLOS GUEDES SOARES	920
WAVE MODELLING IN INTERTIDAL ESTUARIES: COMPARISON WITH MEASURED DATA NIGEL P. TOZER, STEPHEN M. GREY and TONI J. ELLAM	933
MODELING OF TYPHOON WIND-WAVES AROUND THE YANGTZE ESTUARY, CHINA KELIN HU, PINGXING DING and QIN CHEN	946
ESTIMATING THE PARENT DISTRIBUTION OF STORM TYPE-SEPARATED ANNUAL MAXIMUM WAVE HEIGHTS ON THE NORTHWESTERN PACIFIC OCEAN MASATAKA YAMAGUCHI, HIROKAZU NONAKA and YOSHIO HATADA	959
WAVE DATA ANALYSIS BY HILBERT HUANG TRANSFORM AND CONVENTIONAL DISCRETIZATION METHODS ALBENA D. VELTCHEVA and CARLOS GUEDES SOARES	972
INTERPOLATION OF TIME SERIES OF SEA STATE VARIABLES USING NEURAL NETWORKS JOSEP R. MEDINA and OBDULIO SERRANO-HIDALGO	985
TEMPORAL AND SPATIAL STATISTICAL VARIABILITY OF THE WAVE HEIGHT IN THE SURF ZONE M. C. CASTILLO, A. BAQUERIZO and M. A. LOSADA	997
SHORT RANGE WAVE FORECASTS USING ENSEMBLE WAVE PREDICTION SYSTEM NOBUHITO MORI and HIROMARU HIRAKUCHI	1009
DEPTH-LIMITED DISTRIBUTION OF THE HIGHEST WAVE IN A SEA STATE FERNANDO J. MENDEZ, INIGO J. LOSADA and RAUL MEDINA	1022
JOINT PROBABILITY DISTRIBUTIONS FOR WAVE HEIGHT, WIND SETUP AND WIND SPEED P.H.A.J.M. VAN GELDER, J.K. VRIJLING and D.H. VAN HAAREN	1032
PHASE INVERSION AND THE IDENTIFICATION OF HARMONIC STRUCTURE IN COASTAL ENGINEERING EXPERIMENTS ALISON C. HUNT, PAUL H. TAYLOR, ALISTAIR G. L. BORTHWICK, PETER K. STANSBY and TONG FENG	1047
DEVELOPMENT OF SIMULTANEOUS PLANE MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUES OF AIR AND WATER FLOWS CLOSE TO WIND WAVE INTERFACES K. TAKEHARA, N. OHTSUKA, T. G. ETOH, Y. TAKANO, G. TSUJIMOTO and N. MIZUTANI	1060
OPTICAL REMOTE SENSING ESTIMATES OF THE INCIDENT WAVE ANGLE FIELD DURING NCEX ROB HOLMAN and CHRIS CHICKADEL	1072
IMAGING MEASUREMENT OF WHITECAPS AT SEA OBSERVATION TOWER Y. SUGIHARA, H. TSUMORI, H. YOSHIOKA, S. SERIZAWA and A. MASUDA	1082
GPS BUOY APPLICATION TO OFFSHORE WAVE, TSUNAMI AND TIDE OBSERVATION TOSHIHIKO NAGAI, HIDEAKI OGAWA, YUKIHIRO TERADA, TERUYUKI KATO and MASANOBU KUDAKA	1093
OBSERVATION OF OCEAN WAVES BY LONG-RANGE OCEAN RADAR SHOICHIRO KOJIMA, KENJI SATOH and TAKESHI MATSUOKA	1106

VOLUME 2
Long Waves, Nearshore Currents, and Swash
LAGRANGIAN MULTIPHASE FLOW MODEL FOR DEBRIS-FLOW-INDUCED TSUNAMI HITOSHI GOTOH, MINORU HAYASHI and TETSUO SAKAI	1121
EARTHQUAKE INDUCED WAVE MOTIONS IN CLOSED WATER BODIES MUTHUKUMAR NARAYANASWAMY and ROBERT DALRYMPLE	1134
SPH MODELLING OF UNDERWATER LANDSLIDE GENERATED WAVES A. PANIZZO and R. A. DALRYMPLE	1147
MECHANISM OF SEAWATER EXCHANGE IN SEMI-ENCLOSED BAY WITH SILL AND ITS MODELING ITABASHI NAOKI, TADASHI HIBINO and HIROICHI TSURUYA	1160
PROMOTING EBB DOMINANCE IN COASTAL LAGOONS A.B. FORTUNATO and A. OLIVEIRA	1173
HIGH-RESOLUTION MODELING OF TEXEL INLET E. P. L. ELIAS, J. CLEVERINGA and M.J.F. STIVE	1186
COMPARISON OF NUMERICAL TIDAL MODELS FOR PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS ANDREAS DIETER PLÜß and HOLGER SCHÜTTRUMPF	1199
ENERGY TRANSFER AND DISSIPATION DURING SURF BEAT CONDITIONS T. E. BALDOCK and T. J. O'HARE	1212
SHOALING AND SHORELINE DISSIPATION OF SUBHARMONIC GRAVITY WAVES AP VAN DONGEREN, JOB VAN NOORLOOS, KATE STEENHAUER, JURJEN BATTJES, TIM JANSSEN and AD RENIERS	1225
ANALYSIS AND PREDICTION OF SEICHES IN ROTTERDAM HARBOUR BASINS MARTIJN P.C. DE JONG and JURJEN A. BATTJES	1238
CHARACTERISTICS OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES AROUND JAPAN IN RELATION TO WIND WAVES MASAO SHIGA, KEIJI NAKAI, TOSHIYUKI SAKAI, KAZUO NADAOKA and CHUJI YAMAMOTO	1251
FIELD OBSERVATIONS AND NUMERICAL SIMULATIONS OF HARBOR OSCILATIONS DUE TO LONG PERIOD WAVES KEN-ICHI UZAKI, NOBUHIRO MATSUNAGA, YASUHIRO NISHII and KAZUHITO TAKASE	1264
BOUSSINESQ MODELLING OF WAVEGROUP PROPAGATION OVER A SHALLOW SHOAL AND THE RELEASE OF SECOND ORDER AND HIGHER HARMONICS BENJAMIN P. WESTON, PAUL H. TAYLOR, ALISTAIR G.L. BORTHWICK, ALISON C. HUNT and PETER K. STANSBY	1277
OBSERVATION AND COMPUTATION OF RESONANT LONG PERIOD OSCILLATION EXCITED BY STRONG WIND HIROSHI YOSHIOKA, TOMOTSUKA TAKAYAMA and SHIGEATSU SERIZAWA	1290
LONG PERIOD WAVES AND WAVE ENVELOPE IN SHALLOW WATER DURING A STORM TAKEHITO HORIE, KATSUMI SEKI and MASARU MIZUGUCHI	1299
EXPERIMENTAL ANALYSIS OF LONG WAVES AT HARBOUR ENTRANCES JAVIER L. LARA, FRANCISCO L. MARTIN, INIGO J. LOSADA and GABRIEL DIAZ	1308
HARBOUR SHORT WAVE AGITATION AND RESONANCE BASED ON MODIFIED BOUSSINESQ EQUATIONS INIGO J. LOSADA, PHILIP L.F. LIU, MAURICIO GONZALEZ, GABRIEL DIAZ, JOSE M. GONZALEZ and SEUNG B. WOO	1321
COMPARING THE EFFECTS OF DIFFERENT THREE-DIMENSIONAL FORCING ON NEARSHORE CURRENTS KRISTEN D. SPLINTER and DONALD N. SLINN	1334
PHOTOGRAMMETRIC SURVEY OF THE SURF ZONE FOR CALIBRATION AND VALIDATION OF NUMERICAL MODELS STEFAN SCHIMMELS, WERNER ZIELKE, FOLKE SANTEL and CHRISTIAN HEIPKE	1343
LONG-TERM MONITORING AND ANALYSIS OF OPTICALLY-MEASURED LONGSHORE CURRENTS CHRIS CHICKADEL and ROB HOLMAN	1356
FIELD VERIFICATION OF A NUMERICAL Q-3D NEARSHORE CURRENT MODEL KUCHIISHI TAKAYUKI, KENICHI KATO, MASAMITSU KUROIWA, YUHEI MATSUBARA and HIDEAKI NODA	1367
NEARSHORE MACROVORTICES GENERATED AT A SUBMERGED BREAKWATER: EXPERIMENTAL INVESTIGATION AND STATISTICAL MODELLING L. SOLDINI, C. LORENZONI, A. PIATTELLA, A. MANCINELLI and M. BROCCHINI	1380
A LABORATORY INVESTIGATION OF NEARSHORE TURBULENCE MARK S. OSLER, IB A. SVENDSEN and JAMES T. KIRBY	1393
RESISTANCE TO LONGSHORE CURRENT OVER A RIPPLED BED BRADLEY D. JOHNSON	1404
MODELING OF THE WAVE AND CIRCULATION FIELD AT THE NEARSHORE CANYON EXPERIMENT (NCEX) JOSEPH W. LONG and H. TUBA ÖZKAN-HALLER	1417
THREE-DIMENSIONAL NEARSHORE CURRENTS MODEL USING SIGMA COORDINATE SYSTEM HISAMICHI NOBUOKA, NOBUO MIMURA and J. A. ROELVINK	1429
EXPERIMENTAL INVESTIGATION ON WAVES AND CURRENTS CROSSING AT A RIGHT ANGLE L. CAVALLARO, R. E. MUSUMECI, E. FOTI and P. BLONDEAUX	1442
EVALUATION OF THE LONGSHORE CURRENT FOR A SECTOR OF THE PORTUGUESE WEST COAST: APPLICATION OF DIFFERENT METHODOLOGIES RAQUEL SILVA, A. JORGE DASILVA, EUGEN RUSU, FILIPA S.B.F. OLIVEIRA, SÉRGIO H.C.D. LARANGEIRO and RUI TABORDA	1455
VIDEO-DERIVED OBSERVATIONS OF LONGSHORE CURRENTS ANNA B. COHEN, STEFAN G.J. AARNINKHOF and C. CHRIS CHICKADEL	1468
LABORATORY MEASUREMENTS OF TIME-VARYING RIP CURRENTS KEVIN A HAAS, BRIAN K SAPP and ANDREW B KENNEDY	1480
PULSING AND CIRCULATION IN RIP CURRENT SYSTEM D.P. CALLAGHAN, T.E. BALDOCK, P. NIELSEN, D.M. HANES, K. HAAS and J.H. MACMAHAN	1493
ON THE CONFIGURATION OF RIP CHANNEL ACCELERATING DEVELOPMENT OF RIP CURRENT MAKOTO SHIBASAKI, TAKAAKI UDA, MASUMI SERIZAWA, TAKAYUKI KUMADA and AKIO KOBAYASHI	1506
RIP CURRENT MEASURED AT URADOME BEACH TOTTORI, JAPAN ICHIRO DEGUCHI and SUSUMU ARAKI	1519
EFFECT OF WAVE FORCING ON STORM SURGE R. J. WEAVER and DONALD N. SLINN	1532
MULTI-LEVEL STORM SURGE MODEL INCORPORATING DENSITY STRATIFICATION AND WAVE SETUP HIDENORI SHIBAKI, KEIJI NAKAI, KATSUYUKI SUZUYAMA and AKIRA WATANABE	1539
DEVELOPMENT OF STORM SURGE AND TSUNAMI SIMULATOR IN OCEANS AND COASTAL AREAS TARO KAKINUMA and TAKASHI TOMITA	1552
REGIONAL-SCALE STORM-SURGE MODELING OF LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK, USA JENNIFER L. IRISH, BRIAN P. WILLIAMS, ADELE MILITELLO and DAVID J. MARK	1565
WIND-WAVE-SURGE PARALLEL COMPUTATION MODEL AND ITS APPLICATION TO STORM SURGE SIMULATION IN SHALLOW SEA KYEONGOK KIM and TAKAO YAMASHITA	1578
COPULA APPROACH FOR FLOOD PROBABILITY ANALYSIS OF THE HUANGPU RIVER DURING BARRIER CLOSURE J.Y. NAI, P.H.A.J.M. VAN GELDER, P.J.M. KERSSENS, Z.B. WANG and E. VAN BEEK	1591
SWASH FROM LONG WAVES J.W. KAMPHUIS	1604
SWASH BOUNDARY AND CROSS-SHORE VARIATION OF HORIZONTAL VELOCITY ON A SLOPE ASHWINI K. OTTA and ADRIÁN PEDROZO-ACUÑA	1616
NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION OF SWASH ZONE SHEAR STRESSES JACK A. PULEO and DONALD N. SLINN	1629
NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF STORM-INDUCED CURRENT SYSTEM IN COASTAL REGION SHIGERU KATO and TAKAO YAMASHITA	1638
EFFECT OF THE KUROSHIO MEANDERING ON SEA LEVELS ALONG THE PACIFIC COAST KATSUAKI KOMAI, SHIRO KAWASHIMA and TADASHI HIBINO	1650
Sediment Transport and Morphology
SEDIMENT TRANSPORT OF NON-UNIFORM SANDS IN OSCILLATORY SHEET-FLOWS WAEL HASSAN and JAN RIBBERINK	1665
NUMERICAL MODELLING OF LITTORAL SAND TRANSPORT CATHERINE VILLARET and ALAN G. DAVIES	1678
NUMERICAL AND EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF WAVE-GENERATED SHEET FLOW TOM O'DONOGHUE, MING LI, JONATHAN MALARKEY, SHUNQI PAN, ALAN G. DAVIES and BRIAN A. O'CONNOR	1690
A SHEET-FLOW TRANSPORT RATE FORMULA FOR ASYMMETRIC, FORWARD-LEANING WAVES AND CURRENTS AKIRA WATANABE and SHINJI SATO	1703
AN EVALUATION METHOD OF SUSPENDED SEDIMENT CONCENTRATION IN AND OUTSIDE THE SURF ZONE MANTRIPATHI PRABATH RAVINDRA JAYARATNE and TOMOYA SHIBAYAMA	1715
NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF SEDIMENT SUSPENSION ABOVE RIPPLED BED UNDER BROKEN WAVES MING LI, SHUNQI PAN and BRIAN A O'CONNOR	1728
WAVE-INDUCED SEDIMENT TRANSPORT PROCESSES IN THE RIPPLE REGIME JEBBE J. VAN DER WERF and JAN S. RIBBERINK	1741
SUSPENDED SAND CONCENTRATIONS IN SURF ZONES YUKIKO TEGA, NOBUHISA KOBAYASHI, MICHAEL A. GIOVANNOZZI and BRADLEY D. JOHNSON	1754
SEDIMENT SUSPENSION UNDER SHEET FLOW CONDITIONS: REGULAR AND RANDOM WAVES PLUS CURRENT LARS ERIK HOLMEDAL and DAG MYRHAUG	1767
MODELLING SUSPENDED SEDIMENT PROFILES UNDER WAVES: A FINITE-MIXING-LENGTH THEORY IAN A L TEAKLE and PETER NIELSEN	1780
NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF 3-D INTERMITTENT SEDIMENT SUSPENSION IN THE SURF ZONE TAKAYUKI SUZUKI and AKIO OKAYASU	1793
LARGE SCALE BEDFORMS AND SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN FRONT OF CLIFFS ELENA SANCHEZ-BADORREY and MIGUEL A. LOSADA	1805
ANALYSIS OF COHESIVE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN DECELERATING AND ACCELERATING FLOW LUÍS IVENS PORTELA and MIGUEL MALDONADO REIS	1818
FLUME MEASUREMENTS OF REGULAR WAVE GROUP-INDUCED PORE PRESSURES IN A FLUIDIZED SANDY BED SHIAW-YIH TZANG and SHAN-HUEI OU	1830
THE INFLUENCE OF OFFSHORE STORM WAVES ON GROUNDWATER DYNAMICS AND SALINITY IN A SANDY BEACH NICK CARTWRIGHT, PETER NIELSEN and LING LI	1841
WAVE ATTENUATION AND MUD MASS TRANSPORT UNDER IRREGULAR WAVES MOHSEN SOLTANPOUR, TOMOYA SHIBAYAMA, YUGO MASUYA and IMAN SABZEVARI	1851
RISK ANALYSIS OF UNSATURATED, NON-COHESIVE SUBSOIL DUE TO TURBULENT FLOW FLUCTUATIONS M. DAVIS, M.A. KOENDERS and H.J. KÖHLER	1861
MODELING CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT PROCESSES WITH A TIME DOMAIN BOUSSINESQ MODEL WEN LONG, TIAN-JIAN HSU and JAMES T. KIRBY	1874
ACOUSTIC CHARACTERISATION OF SHINGLE MOVEMENT IN THE SURF ZONE TRAVIS MASON, DUNCAN PRIESTLEY, BELEN BLANCO, ANDREW BRADBURY, DOMINIC REEVE, MAURICE MCCABE, TOM COATES and NICK SMITH	1887
THE OFFSHORE BREAKWATER SCHEME AT SEA PALLING, ENGLAND: SAND TRANSPORT GENERATED BY TIDAL CURRENTS J. C. BACON, C. E. VINCENT, T. DOLPHIN, J. TAYLOR, SHUNQI–PAN and B. O'CONNOR	1896
A NEW LOOK TO THE APPLICABILITY OF CLASSICAL MODELS FOR RIPPLE PREDICTION M. R. DELGADO BLANCO, P. BELL and J. MONBALIU	1909
MODELLING OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN A TIDE-DOMINATED COAST. CASE STUDY: CENTRAL DITHMARSCHEN BIGHT, GERMAN WADDEN SEA POERBANDONO and R. MAYERLE	1922
MODELLING SEDIMENT TRANSPORT PROCESSES IN THE NW PORTUGUESE SHELF SÉRGIO H. C. D. LARANGEIRO, ANABELA OLIVEIRA, JOÃO VITORINO and RUI TABORDA	1935
SEDIMENT SUSPENSION MODELING BY SMOOTHED PARTICLE HYDRODYNAMICS SHAN ZOU and ROBERT A. DALRYMPLE	1948
PREDICTION OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE SWASH ZONE BY USING A NONLINEAR WAVE MODEL TH. V. KARAMBAS	1959
EVALUATION OF A NOVEL MULTIFUNCTIONAL ARTIFICIAL REEF FOR DUBAI Gary Mocke, Francois Smit and Khalid Al Zahed	1971
PROCESSES GOVERNING SHORELINE RESPONSE TO SUBMERGED BREAKWATERS: MULTI-FUNCTION STRUCTURES – A SPECIAL CASE ROSHANKA RANASINGHE and IAN L. TURNER	1984
DOWNDRIFT TRANSFER OF BACKGROUND EROSIONAL PRESSURE BY A LITTORAL BARRIER ROBERT G. DEAN	1997
A SIMPLE NEW SHORELINE EVOLUTION MODEL JON K. MILLER and ROBERT G. DEAN	2009
GEOMORPHIC APPROACH FOR MITIGATING BEACH EROSION DOWNDRIFT OF LITTORAL BARRIERS JOHN R-C. HSU, ANTONIO H.F. KLEIN and LINDINO BENEDET	2022
EXTENDING A 1-LINE MODELING APPROACH TO EXPLORE EMERGENT COASTLINE BEHAVIORS A. BRAD MURRAY and ANDREW ASHTON	2035
DEVELOPMENT OF PRACTICAL ONE-LINE MODEL APPLICABLE TO COASTS WITH SCARCE WAVE AND TOPOGRAPHIC DATA MASAHIRO MIURA, TAKAAKI UDA, MASUMI SERIZAWA, TAKAYUKI KUMADA and AKIO KOBAYASHI	2048
PREDICTIVE MODEL OF FORMATION OF A SAND SPIT SHUSUKE WATANABE, MASUMI SERIZAWA and TAKAAKI UDA	2061
RAPID FORMATION OF A BARRIER ISLAND AND BEACH EROSION CAUSED BY LARGE-SCALE EXCAVATION OF REEF FLAT ON CARBONATE BEACH YUTAKA OSUGA, TAKAAKI UDA, SUSUMU ONAKA, SHUBUN ENDO, MASUMI SERIZAWA and TOSHIRO SAN-NAMI	2074
UNCERTAINTY ASSESMENT OF LONG TERM SHORELINE PREDICTION A. PAYO, A. BAQUERIZO and M. A. LOSADA	2087
MATANE (QUEBEC) DYKE MODIFICATION AND SUBSEQUENT BEACH EROSION YANN ROPARS	2097
CALIBRATION OF A PROCESS MODEL for BARRIER ISLAND BREACHING DAVID R. BASCO	2108
NUMERICAL MORPHOLOGIC MODEL OF BARRIER ISLAND BREACHING NICHOLAS C. KRAUS and KENTARO HAYASHI	2120
MODELING DUNE RESPONSE BY OVERWASH TRANSPORT MAGNUS LARSON, RANDALL A. WISE and NICHOLAS C. KRAUS	2133
MODELING OF STORM INDUCED BARRIER ISLAND OVERWASH AND BREACHING IN THE ATLANTIC COAST OF LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK RAFAEL CAÑIZARES, SANTIAGO ALFAGEME and MARK B. GRAVENS	2146
STOCHASTIC PROCESSES IN BEACH RESPONSE PREDICTIONS S. M. VAN LEEUWEN, N. DODD, D. CALVETE and A. FALQUÉS	2159
A CONCEPTUAL MODEL FOR THE RETREAT AND VOLUME LOSS OF THE LOUISIANA BARRIER ISLANDS WITH IMPLICATIONS FOR THE DESIGN OF BEACH NOURISHMENT THOMAS CAMPBELL and LINDINO BENEDET	2170
PRACTICAL INSIGHTS AND APPLICABILITY OF EMPIRICAL BAY SHAPE EQUATIONS LINDINO BENEDET, ANTONIO H.F. KLEIN and JOHN R-C. HSU	2181
MEDIUM-TERM Q-3D COASTAL AREA MODEL WITH SHORELINE CHANGE AROUND COASTAL STRUCTURES MASAMITSU KUROIWA, J. WILLIAM KAMPHUIS, TAKAYUKI KUCHIISHI, YUHEI MATSUBARA and HIDEAKI NODA	2194
NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF BEACH CHANGES USING AN N-LINE MODEL VAN TO DANG and RONALD J. COX	2207
NUMERICAL MODELING OF DYNAMIC EQUILIBRIUM BAY SHAPE SUTAT WEESAKUL, TANUSPONG POKAVANICH and THET YEE WIN	2220
APPLICATION OF A PREDICTIVE CHANNEL SHOALING AND MIGRATION MODEL, M3D, TO ST MARYS ENTRANCE, FLORIDA CHRISTOPHER W. REED, HIMANGSHU DAS and ALAN W. NIEDORODA	2232

VOLUME 3
Sediment Transport and Morphology
SEASONAL MUDFLAT PROFILE EVOLUTION FUMIHIKO YAMADA, NOBUHISA KOBAYASHI, MAKOTO NAKAMICHI and TETSUYA KAKINOKI	2243
MODELLING OF MEDIUM SCALE MORPHODYNAMICS OF A TIDAL FLAT AREA IN THE GERMAN WADDEN SEA JORT WILKENS and ROBERTO MAYERLE	2256
PREDICTION MODEL OF STORM-INDUCED EROSION AND DEPOSITION IN THE YANGTZE ESTUARY PINGXING DING, KELIN HU and YAZHEN KONG	2269
MORPHODYNAMICS OF THE TAGUS ESTUARY ENTRANCE: SIMULATION OF ALTERNATIVE SOLUTIONS FOR BAR MAINTENANCE MÁRIO TELES and ANDREIA BARATA	2280
HYDROMORPHOLOGICAL MODEL OF THE SURROUNDING WATERS OF MACAO ANDREIA BARATA, MÁRIO TELES and J. SEABRA DE MELO	2290
A METHOD BASED ON ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY MEASUREMENT TO MONITOR LOCAL DEPTH CHANGES IN THE SURF ZONE AND IN DEPTH SOIL RESPONSE TO THE WAVE ACTION MATHIEU CASSEN, STÉPHANE ABADIE, GAËL ARNAUD and DENIS MORICHON	2302
CROSS-SHORE EVOLUTION OF BUARCOS BEACH, PORTUGAL PAULA FREIRE, FILIPA S.B.F. OLIVEIRA, RUI CAPITÃO, CONCEIÇÃO FORTES and MARIANA COSTA	2314
LONGSHORE VARIATION OF DEPTH OF CLOSURE ON A MICRO-TIDAL WAVE-DOMINATED COAST SABATIER FRANCOIS, MARCEL J. F. STIVE and FREDERIC PONS	2327
HYPERBOLIC MODEL FOR EQUILIBRIUM BEACH PROFILES WITH SHOALING AND BREAKING ZONES EDUARDO GARCÍA and RAÚL MEDINA	2340
PROFILE CHANGE OF COARSE AND FINE MATERIAL COMPOSITE BEACH TAKAO YAMASHITA, PARK JUNGWOOK and MATAHIRO ITO	2353
STUDY ON VELOCITY FIELD ON BEACH AND PROFILE CHANGE OF BEACH CONSISTING OF SAND AND GRAVEL MIXTURE NORIMI MIZUTANI, HYUN-HO MA and SHU EGUCHI	2364
THE VARIATION UNDER DIFFERENT CONDITIONS OF THE INFLUENCE OF IN-EXFILTRATION ON SWASH-ZONE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT TONY BUTT, PAUL RUSSELL, IAN TURNER, JON MILES and GERHARD MASSELINK	2377
SEDIMENT-LEVEL OSCILLATIONS IN THE SWASH ZONE OF A MIXED SAND AND GRAVEL BEACH DIANE P. HORN and SUSAN M. WALTON	2390
INVESTIGATIONS ON RECENT ACCELERATED BEACH EROSION ON AJIGAURA COAST, IBARAKI, JAPAN HIROMUNE YOKOKI, NOBUO MIMURA, YOSUKE MINAMI and HISAMICHI NOBUOKA	2403
DEVELOPMENT OF AN EQUILIBRIUM BAY: A LONG-TERM MORPHODYNAMIC MODELING STUDY MARKUS WITTING and ULRICH ZANKE	2413
ENHANCEMENT OF T-GROIN'S DESIGN TO IMPROVE DOWNDRIFT SHORELINE RESPONSE MOHAMED A. DABEES, BRETT D. MOORE and KENNETH K. HUMISTON	2423
SIMULATION OF COASTAL EVOLUTION USING AN N-LINE MODEL INCLUDING WIND-INDUCED CURRENTS YASUYUKI BABA, MAGNUS LARSON, HANS HANSON and TAKAO YAMASHITA	2436
ONE-LINE MODELLING OF COMPLEX BEACH CONDITIONS: AN APPLICATION TO COASTAL EROSION AT HAI HAU BEACH IN THE RED RIVER DELTA, VIETNAM CHANTAL DONNELLY, NGUYEN MANH HUNG, MAGNUS LARSON and HANS HANSON	2449
PREDICTING SHORELINE CHANGE ON A MANIPULATED SHORELINE MARGERY F. OVERTON, JOHN S. FISHER and ROBERT DOLAN	2462
SHORT-TERM PREDICTION OF COASTAL RECESSION AROUND SANDWIP ISLAND IN THE NORTHERN BAY OF BENGAL, BANGLADESH MUSTAFA ATAUS SAMAD and HITOSHI TANAKA	2471
LINEAR EVOLUTION OF SAND WAVE PACKETS AND RELEVANCE TO OFFSHORE SAND EXTRACTION PIETER C. ROOS, PAOLO BLONDEAUX, SUZANNE J. M. H. HULSCHER and GIOVANNA VITTORI	2484
UNDERSTANDING AND PREDICTING MORPHOLOGICAL CHANGE IN THE INNER HUMBER ESTUARY IVAN HAIGH, PAUL NORTON and IAN TOWNEND	2493
MORPHODYNAMIC MODELING OF THE ÓBIDOS LAGOON ANABELA OLIVEIRA, ANDRÉ B. FORTUNATO and FRANCISCO E. P. SANCHO	2506
PHYSICAL PROCESSES ASSOCIATED WITH ONSHORE SAND BANK MIGRATION ADJACENT AN ESTUARY MOUTH NIGEL P. AIRD, MARK A. DAVIDSON and ISMAEL J. MARINO-TAPIA	2519
DIMENSIONLESS PARAMETERS TO DESCRIBE TOPOGRAPHICAL EQUILIBRIUM OF COASTAL INLETS TOTOK SUPRIJO and AKIRA MANO	2531
MIGRATION OF CHANNELS IMMEDIATELY LANDWARD OF TIDAL INLETS BILLY L. EDGE and WAHYU W. PANDOE	2544
SAND WAVES OF THE NAVIGATION CHANNEL OF PONTA DA MADEIRA HARBOUR (BRAZIL) RODRIGO NOGUEIRA DE ARAÚJO, PAOLO ALFREDINI and ROGÉRIO FERNADO DO AMARAL	2558
INFRAGRAVITY WAVES AND RHYTHMIC SHORELINE FORMS AT A NON-TIDAL, SANDY COAST WITH MULTIPLE BARS ZBIGNIEW PRUSZAK, GRZEGORZ RÓŻYŃSKI, MAREK SZMYTKIEWICZ and RAFAŁ OSTROWSKI	2568
MORPHOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT OF SHALLOW SAND PITS P. BLONDEAUX and G. VITTORI	2581
SUPERIMPOSED PROCESSES CREATING A COMPLEX EROSIONAL AREA AT THE SOUTH ATLANTIC COAST OF SPAIN CHRISTIAN M. APPENDINI, JOSÉ MARÍA MEDINA VILLAVERDE, RAFAEL GONZALEZ Y DIEZ DE LA CORTINA and ENRIQUE PEREZ GOMEZ	2594
A NUMERICAL HYBRID MODEL FOR THE MORPHOLOGY OF A BARRED COAST WITH A RIVER MOUTH HANS FABRICIUS HANSEN, ROLF DEIGAARD and NILS DRØNEN	2607
IMPLICATIONS OF MORPHODYNAMIC TIME SCALE FOR COASTAL PROTECTION HANS HANSON and MAGNUS LARSON	2620
A HYBRID APPROACH FOR MODELLING THE IMPACT OF SUBMERGED OFFSHORE BREAKWATERS ON EGYPT'S NORTH-WEST COAST HANS DE VROEG, ROBIN MORELISSEN, ADBDEL-AZIM M. ALI and HANAA RASMY FAHMY	2633
COASTAL AREA MORPHOLOGICAL MODELLING IN THE VICINITY OF GROINS HAKEEM K. JOHNSON	2646
2DH AND MULTI1DH MORPHOLOGICAL MODEL FOR MEDIUM TERM EVOLUTION OF LARGE SCALE FEATURES AND NOURISHMENT IN THE NEARSHORE REGION: APPLICATION TO TRUCVERT AND CORNICHE BEACH (FRANCE) AND LA BARROSA BEACH (SPAIN) Philippe Larroudé and Benoît Camenen	2659
FIELD INVESTIGATION ON REGIONAL SEDIMENT MOVEMENT AROUND THE SHOUNAN COAST SHINJI SATO, TAKAKO FUKUYAMA, TAKEHISA MATSUDA and SUSUMU TANAKA	2668
USE OF X-BAND RADAR FOR WAVE AND BEACH MORPHOLOGY ANALYSIS JAE HYENG LEE, SATOSHI TAKEWAKA, TAKAYUKI SAKAI and SEIKI TAKANO	2681
MASS TRANSPORT AND RELATED BEDFORMS INDUCED BY PHASE-LOCKED EDGEWAVES IN A GROIN ASUNCIÓN BAQUERIZO, MIGUEL ORTEGA-SÁNCHEZ and MIGUEL A. LOSADA	2694
VALIDATION OF A NEW TRANSPORT FORMULA (TRANSPOR2004) IN A THREE-DIMENSIONAL MORPHOLOGICAL MODEL D.J.R. WALSTRA, L.C. VAN RIJN and A. KLEIN	2703
INFLUENCE OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT FORMULATION ON THE LINEAR STABILITY OF PLANAR AND BARRED COASTS M.D. KLEIN, H.M. SCHUTTELAARS and M.J.F. STIVE	2716
MODELING BAR MIGRATION USING PREDICTED VELOCITY TIME SERIES JAMIE LESCINSKI and H. TUBA ÖZKAN-HALLER	2729
STATISTICAL SIMULATION FOR COASTAL BLUFF FAILURE INDUCED BY STORM WAVES CHIA-CHI LU, WENKAI QIN and BRUCE M. WILLIAMS	2742
SAND BAR DYNAMICS FROM A PARAMETRIC MORPHODYNAMIC MODEL I. MARIÑO-TAPIA, T.J. O'HARE, P.E. RUSSELL, M.A. DAVIDSON and D.A. HUNTLEY	2755
VIDEO OBSERVATIONS OF CRESCENTIC SANDBAR FORMATION AND MODELLING IMPLICATIONS COCO GIOVANNI, RUESSINK B.G., I.M.J. VAN ENCKEVORT, M. CABALLERIA, A. FALQUÉS, R.A. HOLMAN, N.G. PLANT and I.L. TURNER	2767
GENERATION OF NEARSHORE MORPHOLOGY IN A COMBINED WAVE-CURRENT-MORPHOLOGY SYSTEM HAI-YING JIAO and H. TUBA ÖZKAN-HALLER	2777
HYDRODYNAMICS AND MORHODYNAMICS AT A PROTECTED BEACH: THE CASE STUDY OF PELLESTRINA, ITALY BARBARA ZANUTTIGH, RENATA ARCHETTI and CARLO BARBANTI	2784
NON-LINEAR BEHAVIOUR OF A DOUBLE NEARSHORE BAR SYSTEM MARIJE W.J. SMIT, AD J.H.M. RENIERS, MARCEL J.F. STIVE and DANO J.A. ROELVINK	2797
EXPERIMENTAL ANALYSIS AND 2DH NUMERICAL SIMULATIONS OF MORPHODYNAMICS AROUND LOW-CRESTED STRUCTURES LUCA MARTINELLI, BARBARA ZANUTTIGH, EMANUELA CLEMENTI, MASSIMO GUERRERO and ALBERTO LAMBERTI	2810
MORPHOLOGICAL MODELLING UNDER AN EVENT-DRIVEN WAVE CLIMATE GERHARDUS P.J. DIEDERICKS, GEOFFREY G. SMITH and STEPHEN LUGER	2823
MORPHODYNAMICS ON A BEACH WITH A SUBMERGED DETACHED BREAKWATER AGUSTÍN SÁNCHEZ-ARCILLA, JOSÉ M. ALSINA, IVÁN CÁCERES, DANIEL GONZALEZ-MARCO, JOAN P. SIERRA and CARLOS PEÑA	2836
STORM-SCALE EFFECTS OF SHORE-PARALLEL BREAKWATERS ON BEACHES IN A TIDAL SETTING (LEACOAST) TONY DOLPHIN, JON TAYLOR, CHRIS VINCENT, JOHN BACON, SHUNQI PAN and BRIAN O'CONNER	2849
ADVANCED MORPHOLOGICAL MODELS FOR ENGINEERING APPLICATIONS STEFAN G.J. AARNINKHOF, GIJSBERT VAN HOLLAND, J.A. (DANO) ROELVINK and ROB C. STEIJN	2862
MORPHODYNAMIC INSTABILITIES IN THE SURF ZONE SANDRA FACHIN and FRANCISCO E. P. SANCHO	2875
GENERATION OF NEARSHORE OBLIQUE SAND BARS: SENSITIVITY TO SAND TRANSPORT FORMULATION F. RIBAS, N.C. VIS-STAR, H.E. DE SWART and A. FALQUÉS	2888
DESIGN OF CARBONATE SAND BEACHES IN BARBADOS ROBERT B. NAIRN, MOHAMMAD DIBAJNIA, DAVID ANGLIN and MICHAEL J. RISK	2901
ON WIND-BLOWN TRANSPORT RATE OF FINE SAND SHINTARO HOTTA, SUSUMU KUBOTA and SOUICHI HARIKAI	2914
EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON EFFECT OF VEGETATION VIBRATION ON BLOWN SAND KEIKO UDO, SATOSHI TAKEWAKA and HITOSHI NISHIMURA	2927
Coastal Management, Dredging, and Beach Nourishment
COAST PROTECTION AT SIDMOUTH JOHN ANDREWS	2943
COMPLETING THE CAH$\rus{k}$T-ПETEP$\rus{b}$УPΓ FLOOD PROTECTION BARRIER - TECHNICAL FEASIBILITY STUDY FRANK WIERSMA, BERT TE SLAA, ALEX BOUTOVSKI, SERGEI N. KURAEV, ALEXANDER A. GARKAVKO and TATIANA N. KUZNETSOVA	2954
BETTER COASTAL MANAGEMENT BY INCLUDING OFFSHORE AND GEOLOGICAL INFORMATION IN THE SEDIMENT BUDGET PER SØRENSEN, CHRISTIAN LAUSTRUP, SØREN BJERRE KNUDSEN and HOLGER TOXVIG MADSEN	2960
LARGE-SCALE SAND BALANCE OF THE NETHERLANDS COASTAL SYSTEM: MODELLING OF A POLICY INDICATOR HENK J. STEETZEL, ZHENG B. WANG and JAN P. M. MULDER	2973
BALANCING RESEARCH EFFORTS AND MANAGEMENT NEEDS: A CHALLENGE FOR COASTAL ENGINEERING MARK VAN KONINGSVELD, MARCEL J.F. STIVE and JAN P. M. MULDER	2985
THE "PRESTIGE" OIL SPILL: AN EMERGENCY RESPONSE PLAN FOR THE CANTABRIAN COAST SONIA CASTANEDO, RAUL MEDINA, INIGO J. LOSADA and FERNANDO J. MENDEZ	2998
COASTAL HAZARD PREVENTION AND RESPONSE EVALUATION LESLEY C. EWING, COSTAS E. SYNOLAKIS and DONALD D. TREADWELL	3011
ECONOMIC IMPACTS OF ANTHROPOGENIC ACTIVITIES ON COASTLINES OF THE UNITED STATES ORVILLE T. MAGOON, S. JEFFRESS WILLIAMS, LINDA K. LENT, JAMES A. RICHMOND, DONALD D. TREADWELL, SCOTT L. DOUGLASS, BILLY L. EDGE, LESLEY C. EWING and ANTHONY P. PRATT	3022
COASTAL FLOOD FORECASTING: BEST PRACTICE IN ENGLAND AND WALES PETER HAWKES, RAHMAN KHATIBI and PAUL SAYERS	3036
A COMPARISON OF FLOOD RISK ASSESSMENT PRACTICES IN THE NETHERLANDS AND JAPAN S.N. JONKMAN, F. KATO and J.K. VRIJLING	3049
EFFICIENT BROAD SCALE COASTAL FLOOD RISK ASSESSMENT RICHARD DAWSON, PAUL SAYERS, JIM HALL, MOHAMMED HASSAN and PAUL BATES	3061
PERFORMANCE DESIGN CONCEPT FOR STORM SURGE DEFENSES SHIGEO TAKAHASHI, HIROYASU KAWAI, TOMOTSUKA TAKAYAMA and TAKASHI TOMITA	3074
FACTORS CONTROLLING VULNERABILITY TO STORM IMPACTS ALONG THE CATALONIAN COAST E. TONATIUH MENDOZA and JOSÉ. A. JIMÉNEZ	3087
COASTAL DATA COLLECTION IN SUPPORT OF REGIONAL SEDIMENT MANAGEMENT RICHARD J. SEYMOUR	3100
REGIONAL SEDIMENT MANAGEMENT BASED ON SEDIMENT BUDGET FOR GRADED SEDIMENTS -A CASE STUDY OF TENRYU WATERSHED AND ENSHU-NADA COAST KEN-ICHI TORII, SHINJI SATO, TAKAAKI UDA and TETSUYA OKAYASU	3110
FLOOD RISK ANALYSIS FOR THE FLEMISH-DUTCH COAST TOON VERWAEST, KOEN TROUW, CHANTAL MARTENS, BJORN VAN DE WALLE, KIM SUYKENS, RIK HOUTHUYS, JAN MAERTENS, CHRIS KEPPERS, PETER WAUTERS, ELS STOOPS, STEVEN SMETS, WOUTER VANNEUVILLE, KOEN MAEGHE and TOM DE MULDER	3123
VIDEO MONITORING IN SUPPORT OF COASTAL MANAGEMENT KATHELIJNE M. WUNBERG, STEFAN G.J. AARNINKHOF, MARK VAN KONINGSVELD, B. GERBEN RUESSINK and MARCEL J.F. STIVE	3136
BASIN-WIDE APPROACHES TO NUMERICAL MODELING FOR WETLAND RESTORATION PROJECTS JEFFREY G. SHELDEN, PAUL A. TSCHIRKY and RAMONA T. HOLDSTOCK	3149
ASSESSING COASTAL HAZARDS USING RECENT 3D EVOLUTION OF BEACH GEOMORPHOLOGY BASED ON LIDAR AND RTK-GPS SURVEYS HELENA MITASOVA, MARGERY F. OVERTON, RUSSELL S. HARMON and DAVID BERSTEIN	3162
SEDIMENT DYNAMICS ASSOCIATED WITH MANAGED REALIGNMENT; FREISTON SHORE, THE WASH, UK ANDREW M. SYMONDS and MICHAEL B. COLLINS	3173
MANAGING COASTAL EROSION IN EUROPE ILLUSTRATED BY 60 CASE STUDIES PETER K. SCHOEMAN, SANDER E. HOOGEWONING, CARLOTA MONTORI I BLANCH, PAUL G.J. SISTERMANS and ODELINDE E. NIEUWENHUIS	3186
THE APPLICATION OF NEW APPROACHES FOR DEVELOPING SHORELINE MANAGEMENT PLANS KEVIN BURGESS and HELEN JAY	3196
SEA LEVEL RISE AND COASTAL ZONE RISK IN THE NETHERLANDS J.K. VRIJLING, P. VAN GELDER and M. KOK	3207
MONITORING REQUIREMENTS FOR HABITAT CREATION SCHEMES NATALIE J FROST, STEPHEN C HULL and NIGEL I PONTEE	3217
CALIBRATION OF A WATER QUALITY MODEL FOR THE NUTRIENT DISTRIBUTION IN THE MELDORF BIGHT, GERMANY PIYAMARN LEANGRUXA, KARL-J. HESSE and ROBERTO MAYERLE	3228
WASTEWATER OUTFALLS FOR COASTAL CITIES DONALD D. TREADWELL, BRIAN J. VAN WEELE and YAIR EISENBERG	3239
ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN OF BILBAO SUBMARINE OUTFALL (SPAIN) ANDRÉS GARCÍA, CÉSAR ÁLVAREZ, JOSÉ A. REVILLA, JOSÉ A. JUANES and RAÚL MEDINA	3251
DISTINGUISHING PROJECT EFFECTS FROM NATURAL CAUSES HERMAN C. MILLER, EDWARD F. THOMPSON, JESSE E. MCNINCH, ALAN K. ZUNDEL and WILLIAM A. DENNIS	3264
IMPROVING THE NAVIGABILITY AND SAFETY CONDITIONS IN DOURO ESTUARY INLET ADÉLIO J.R. SILVA, CARLOS ABECASIS and JOSÉ CHAMBEL LEITÃO	3277
IMPROVING NAVIGATION CONDITIONS AND SAFETY IN THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER DOURO (PORTUGAL) A. GUEDES-DE-CAMPOS, RICARDO B. CARVALHO, I. MOTA OLIVEIRA, TRIGO TEIXEIRA and TIM CHESHER	3290
MODERNISATION OF THE VISTULA RIVER OUTLET – OPTIMISATION OF THE JETTIES BY MODELLING APPROACH DARIUSZ GASIOROWSKI, JAROSŁAW KAPIŃSKI, RAFAŁ OSTROWSKI, MAŁGORZATA ROBAKIEWICZ, MAREK SKAJA and MAREK SZMYTKIEWICZ	3303
HYDRODYNAMICS AND TRANSPORT IN THE COASTAL ZONE OF SÃO PAULO – BRAZIL PAULO C. LEITÃO, JOSÉ C. LEITÃO, RAMIRO NEVES, GILBERTO BERZIN and ADÉLIO J. R. SILVA	3316
NEW RESTORATION WORK FROM DAMAGE OF WATERPROOF SHEET AT ASH DISPOSAL SITE TSUTOMU SAKAKAIYAMA	3329
A STUDY OF A NAVIGATION CHANNEL SUBJECT TO REGULAR DREDGINGS USING EIGENFUNCTION ANALYSIS: THE ADOUR RIVER MOUTH FRANCE PHILIPPE MARON, DIDIER RIHOUEY and JEAN DUBRANNA	3342
MINIMISING THE IMPACTS OF RECLAMATION DREDGING AT CAPE TOWN STEPHEN LUGER, GEOFFREY SMITH and J S SCHOONEES	3354
BEACH NOURISHMENT AND LITTORAL LONGSHORE TRANSPORT INTERRUPTED BY MARINA: L'HOSPITALET CASE STUDY J. GALOFRE, F.J. MONTOYA and T. VILLANUEVA	3365
PREDICTIVE MODEL OF CHANGE IN LONGITUDINAL PROFILE IN BEACH NOURISHMENT USING SAND OF MIXED GRAIN SIZE TAKAAKI UDA, TAKAYUKI KUMADA and MASUMI SERIZAWA	3378

VOLUME 4
Coastal Management, Dredging, and Beach Nourishment
PRESERVING SYSTEM OF NOURISHED BEACH BY A DISTORTED RIPPLE MAT NOBUYUKI ONO, ISAO IRIE and HIROSHI YAMAGUCHI	3391
BEHAVIOUR OF A MEGANOURISHMENT ON A HIGH ENERGY COASTLINE GEOFFREY G. SMITH, CHRISTOPH SOLTAU and EMMA C. GORDGE	3404
PROTECTION OF RECESSIVE COASTS BY COMBINED BEACH NOURISHMENT AND SUPPORTING STRUCTURES - A CONTRIBUTION TO COASTAL FLOOD DEFENCE - HANS-H. DETTE and HOCINE OUMERACI	3416
REHABILITATION STUDY OF COASTAL DEFENSE WORKS AND ARTIFICIAL SAND NOURISHMENT AT COSTA DA CAPARICA, PORTUGAL F. VELOSO-GOMES, F. TAVEIRA-PINTO and J. PAIS-BARBOSA	3429
BEACH RE-NOURISHMENT AT PLAYA DE VILLANANITOS, SPAIN GUILLERMO M. DÍAZ MÉNDEZ, CHRISTIAN M. APPENDINI, JOSÉ MARÍA MEDINA VILLAVERDE, JORGE REY SALGADO, MIGUEL FERNÁNDEZ COVARSI and FRANCISCO PEÑALVER GARCERÁN	3442
A CRITICAL REVIEW OF URBAN BEACH NOURISHMENT PROJECTS IN CADIZ CITY AFTER TWELVE YEARS GREGORIO GÓMEZ-PINA, JUAN J. MUÑOZ-PÉREZ, LORENZO FAGES, JOSE L. RAMÍREZ, JAVIER ENRIQUEZ and JESUS DE SOBRINO	3454
Coastal Structures
CATASTROPHIC CORE-LOC FAILURE AT VENTURA HARBOR, CALIFORNIA, USA CHUCK MESA	3469
REAR-SIDE STABILITY OF RUBBLE MOUND STRUCTURES MARCEL R.A. VAN GENT and BEATRIZ POZUETA	3481
RESIDUAL STRENGTH OF DIKE AFTER FAILURE OF COVER LAYER E.M. COEVELD, J.G. KNOEFF, A. BIZARRI and M. KLEIN BRETELER	3494
NUMERICAL MODELLING OF BREAKING WAVES ON A BEACH AND PORE PRESSURES INSIDE A BREAKWATER BÅRD BRØRS, ØIVIND. A. ARNTSEN and ALF TØRUM	3507
EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH ON THE STABIILITY OF ARMOUR AND SECONDARY LAYER IN A SINGLE LAYERED TETRAPOD BREAKWATER WESLEY DE JONG, HENK JAN VERHAGEN and JELLE OLTHOF	3520
EFFECTS OF LAYER THICKNESS AND CORE MATERIAL ON STABILITY OF ARMOR UNITS SHIN-ICHI KUBOTA, AKIRA MATSUMOTO, MINORU HANZAWA and MICHIO MATSUOKA	3530
SAFETY ASSESSMENT USING LEVEL II PROBABILISTIC METHODS: APPLICATION TO THE SINES' WEST BREAKWATER ISAAC ALMEIDA DE SOUSA, MARIA TERESA REIS and JOÃO ALFREDO SANTOS	3543
INSPECTION AND DIAGNOSIS OF SINES' WEST BREAKWATER CARLOS SILVESTRE, PAULO OLIVEIRA, ANTÓNIO PASCOAL, LUÍS SEBASTIÃO, JOÃO ALVES, JOÃO ALFREDO SANTOS, LUÍS GABRIEL SILVA and MARIA DA GRAÇA NEVES	3555
INVESTIGATION OF STRUCTURE'S SLOPE EFFECT ON IRREGULAR WAVE REFLECTION FROM RUBBLE-MOUND RESHAPING SEAWALLS MOHAMMAD ALI SALEHIPOUR, FEREYDOUN VAFAIE and PEYMAN AGHTOUMAN	3568
MINIMUM NUMBER OF WAVES IN IRREGULAR WAVE TRAINS FOR LABORATORY STABILITY TESTS OF ARMOUR UNITS YOSHIHARU MATSUMI, KEN-ICHI OHNO and AKIRA KIMURA	3579
WAVE-TO-WAVE EXPONENTIAL ESTIMATION OF ARMOR DAMAGE PROGRESSION MARÍA ESTHER GÓMEZ-MARTÍN and JOSEP R. MEDINA	3592
EXPECTED DAMAGE EVOLUTION OF A MOUND-BREAKWATER DURING ITS USEFUL LIFE M. I. BENEDICTO, M. V. RAMOS, M. A. LOSADA and I. RODRIGUEZ	3605
DEVELOPMENT OF STOCHASTIC TYPHOON MODEL FOR PERFORMANCE DESIGN OF COASTAL STRUCTURES NORIAKI HASHIMOTO, HIROYASU KAWAI, KUNIAKI MATSUURA and KOJI KAWAGUCHI	3615
EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH ON THE FALLING BEHAVIOUR OF SINGLE QUARRY STONES AND GROUPS OF QUARRY STONES IN WATER. J.R. VAN DER WAL, J.K. VRIJLING, G.M. DE BOER, H.L. FONTIJN, J. OLTHOF and W.H. TUTUARIMA	3628
COMBINED INFLUENCE OF BERMS AND WAVE DIRECTION ON WAVE RUN-UP KARL-FRIEDRICH DAEMRICH, HOLGER SCHÜTTRUMPF, JANINE KÜBLER, NINO OHLE, HOCINE OUMERACI and CLAUS ZIMMERMANN	3640
WAVE GROUP INDUCED SET-UP AND ITS EFFECT ON WAVE RUN-UP ON SLOPED STRUCTURES VOLKER BARTHEL, HOLGER SCHÜTTRUMPF, ANDREW CORNETT and NINO OHLE	3653
IJMUIDEN BREAKWATERS: A SPECIAL CASE A. VAN HOVEN, M.B. DE GROOT and J.P.F.M. JANSSEN	3666
FUNCHAL AIRPORT EXTENSION BERM BREAKWATER – DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MONITORING CARLOS ABECASIS and A. FERREIRA DA COSTA	3677
WAVE HEIGHT AND PERIOD PARAMETERS FOR DAMAGE DESCRIPTION ON RUBBLE – MOUND BREAKWATERS. CÉSAR VIDAL, RAUL MEDINA, FRANCISCO L. MARTÍN and LEONARDO MIGOYA	3688
PORE PRESSURE MEASUREMENTS INSIDE RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATERS EINAR HELGASON, HANS F. BURCHARTH and JOACHIM GRÜNE	3701
FLOW MEASUREMENTS AROUND AND INSIDE SUBMERGED RUBBLE-MOUNDS UNDER NORMAL AND OBLIQUE WAVE ATTACK PEDRO LOMONACO, CESAR VlDAL, MARIA DA GRAÇA NEVES and IÑIGO J. LOSADA