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| Title: | A STOCHASTIC MODEL FOR NONLINEAR SURFACE WAVES OVER TOPOGRAPHY | |
| DOI No: | 10.1142/9789812709554_0010 | |
| Source: | COASTAL ENGINEERING 2006 (pp 110-122) | |
| Author(s): | T. T. Janssen
Corresponding author. Department of Oceanography, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA 93940, USA T. H. C. Herbers Department of Oceanography, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA 93940, USA J. A. Battjes Environmental Fluid Mechanics, Faculty of Civil Engineering & Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1, 2628 CN, Delft, The Netherlands |
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| Abstract: | Based on a deterministic angular-spectrum model, we derive a stochastic model for nonlinear, inhomogeneous random wave evolution over nearshore topography. The stochastic model is a weak-refraction, wide-angle diffraction approximation, and accounts for quadratic nonlinearity and depth-induced breaking. Comparison to observations confirms that 1) inhomogeneity in a topography-induced refractive focus, and 2) nonlinear dynamics in shoaling waves on a natural beach, are well represented in the stochastic model. | |
| Full Text: | View full text in PDF format (911KB) | |
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