| Title: | THE IMPORTANCE OF DIRECTIONALITY IN THE EVOLUTION OF LARGE WAVES IN INTERMEDIATE AND SHALLOW WATER |
| DOI No: | 10.1142/9789812709554_0014 |
| Source: | COASTAL ENGINEERING 2006 (pp 157-169)
|
| Author(s): | Vasiliki Katsardi
Department of Civil & Environmental Engineering, Imperial College, London, SW7 2AZ, UK
Chris Swan
Department of Civil & Environmental Engineering, Imperial College, London, SW7 2AZ, UK
|
| Abstract: | Earlier work by Katsardi & Swan (2004) showed that the evolution of large waves in intermediate and shallow water depths may be fundamentally different to that which occurs in deep water. In the latter case linear dispersion is the dominant process. In contrast, in intermediate and shallow water depths, the evolution of uni-directional wave fields is dominated by nonlinear wave modulation rather than linear focusing. In the present paper, numerical calculations based upon the fully nonlinear, three-dimensional wave model proposed by Bateman, Swan & Taylor (2001, 2003) are presented. These consider a number of realistic frequency spectra of varying bandwidth and contrast the evolution of large waves with a variety of directional spreads. The results of these calculations show that the evolution of large waves in intermediate and shallow water depths is critically dependent upon the directionality of the wavefield. In particular, it raises questions over the appropriateness of adopting uni-directional wave trains in both physical model studies and numerical simulations. |
| Full Text: | View full text in PDF format (763KB) |
| TOC: | Back to Table of Contents |
|
|
