| Title: | EXPERIMENTAL WAVE BREAKING IN SWAN |
| DOI No: | 10.1142/9789812709554_0034 |
| Source: | COASTAL ENGINEERING 2006 (pp 392-402)
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| Author(s): | L.H. Holthuijsen
Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1, Delft, 2628 CN, The Netherlands
N. Booij
Digital Hydraulics, Willemsplein 535, Rotterdam, 3016 DR, The Netherlands
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| Abstract: | The dissipation of waves in the surf zone is generally well predicted by spectral wave models but the triad wave-wave interactions and the fraction of breaking waves are not. The present study shows that the estimate of the fraction of breakers can be improved by correlating one coefficient of a conventional model to the average dissipation rate in the surf zone. In addition, it is suggested that the basic characteristics of triad wave-wave interactions in the surf zone (initial generation of higher harmonics, followed by a flattening of the spectral tail) can be simulated efficiently using an analogy with quadruplet wave-wave interactions. |
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