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| Title: | ESTIMATING FREAK WAVE OCCURRENCE IN THE AGHULHAS CURRENT WITH SWAN | |
| DOI No: | 10.1142/9789812709554_0058 | |
| Source: | COASTAL ENGINEERING 2006 (pp 677-688) | |
| Author(s): | A.J. Lansen
Now at Royal Haskoning, Barbarossastraat 35, Nijmegen, 6522, DK, the Netherlands. Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1, Delft, 2628, CN, The Netherlands L.H. Holthuijsen Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1, Delft, 2628, CN, The Netherlands A.J. van der Westhuysen Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1, Delft, 2628, CN, The Netherlands |
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| Abstract: | The third-generation wave model SWAN, which accounts for current-induced refraction, frequency shifting, wave-current energy transfer, wind generation, white-capping and non-linear wave-wave interactions, has been experimentally extended to compute the Benjamin-Feir Index as an indicator for the occurrence of freak waves. This index is defined as the ratio of the wave steepness over the width of the frequency spectrum. Computations in the coastal jet and a ring of the Agulhas current under conditions of strong currents and (locally) moderate wind and waves, show an increase of a factor two of the probability of encountering individual waves that are higher than twice the significant wave height and an additional factor three due to wind generation. | |
| Full Text: | View full text in PDF format (2761KB) | |
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