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Title:NON-GAUSSIAN PROPERTIES OF SURFACE ELEVATION IN CROSSING SEA STATES IN SHALLOW WATER
DOI No:10.1142/9789812709554_0067
Source:COASTAL ENGINEERING 2006 (pp 782-790)
Author(s):A. Toffoli
Hydraulics Laboratory, Katholieke Universiteit Leuven, Kasteelpark Arenberg 40, Heverlee, 3001, Belgium

M. Onorato
Dip. Fisica Generale, Universitá di Torino, Via P. Giuria 1, Torino, 10125, Italy

A.R. Osborne
Dip. Fisica Generale, Universitá di Torino, Via P. Giuria 1, Torino, 10125, Italy

J. Monbaliu
Hydraulics Laboratory, Katholieke Universiteit Leuven, Kasteelpark Arenberg 40, Heverlee, 3001, Belgium

Abstract:The Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation, an extension of the Korteweg-de Vries equation in two horizontal dimensions, is used to study the statistical properties of shallow water waves in crossing sea states. Numerical simulations indicate that the interaction of two non-collinear wave trains generates steep and high amplitude peaks, thus enhancing the deviation of the surface elevation from the Gaussian statistics.
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