| Title: | OPTICAL MEASUREMENTS OF SWASH KINEMATICS |
| DOI No: | 10.1142/9789812709554_0076 |
| Source: | COASTAL ENGINEERING 2006 (pp 887-895)
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| Author(s): | Margaret Palmsten
College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Sciences, Oregon State University, 104 COAS Admin Building, Corvallis, Oregon, 97311, USA
Robert Holman
College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Sciences, Oregon State University, 104 COAS Admin Building, Corvallis, Oregon, 97311, USA
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| Abstract: | Foreshore bathymetry is known to respond to variations in offshore wave forcing, despite the fact that incident wave heights are typically depth limited in the surf zone, so do not directly represent those wave height variations. In an effort to investigate the nature and dynamics of swash velocity moments under varying wave conditions, we have developed an algorithm for optical measurement of cross-shore swash velocity by exploiting foam traces on waves. The resulting velocities were compared with in situ measurements of swash velocity in the frequency domain. Spectral comparisons of optically derived velocity time series with in-situ velocity measurements showed similar spectral shapes and energies. Coherence between the two times series was high, especially at low frequencies. A time lag identified between velocity records increased towards shore. |
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